Minnesota Spoon: Sameh Wadi’s last meal

“First you pour the arak,” insists Sameh Wadi. “Then you add the water. And only then do you add the ice.” Outside the windows of Jon Wipfli’s kitchen, the first big winter snow sits thick on a pair of spruce trees. It is an unexpected setting for a round of arak—a Middle Eastern version of […]

Pages: 1 2

Kimchee and KFC: Young Joni’s Ann Kim and Adam Gorski on new American food traditions

So there’s Young, and there’s Joni. Two moms. One attentive and skillful Korean family cook: Young. One affectionate and bibulous North Dakota family host: Joni. Right? Okay, so there’s this restaurant: Young Joni. Coming soon. Northeast Minneapolis. Front dining room in the spirit of Young: Wood-fired ovens, open grill, shareable meals, generosity. Back bar in […]

Pages: 1 2

Minnesota Spoon: Wine pairing with Jill Mott

Earlier that afternoon, just outside Jon Wipfli’s patio door, an entire boneless leg of lamb had twirled slowly on a string suspended above a hardwood fire for six hours or so, dripping occasional runnels of fat into the coals, and wrapping itself gradually in a cloak of char. Now, on the cutting board in front […]

Minnesota Spoon: Tacos and timing with chef Jorge Guzman

At some point early on Sunday afternoon, I looked up from my work as enthusiastic-but-mostly-unskilled sous chef, and felt a pang of concern. This was not coming together. We were all over the map. Jon Wipfli, The Growler’s resident chef, was downstairs fussing with his new smoker on the sidewalk. Somebody was out on the […]

Pages: 1 2

Minnesota Spoon: Pork chops and plating with chef Paul Berglund

Chef Paul Berglund picks through the selection of knives available in Jon Wipfli’s kitchen, hefts a couple of them, and settles on his weapon of choice. Holding it in his left hand, he trues up the root ends of a row of scallions, rocks the knife up toward its tip, and with a single smooth […]

Pages: 1 2

Minnesota Spoon: Halibut with Mike DeCamp of Monello

The beard is magnificent. Untended and unfashionable. The anti-hipster beard. It streams down from his jaw in uneven rust-colored rivulets, and spreads high up his cheeks and toward his ears in a way that is tempting to compare to a blush, if we weren’t talking about maybe the least blushful person in this zip code. […]

Pages: 1 2

Minnesota Spoon: Smoked brisket recipe from Thomas Boemer of Revival and Corner Table

The brisket hit the smoker at 8am. The whiskey was open by 11am. An early start is important. It’s well established that good barbecue should begin around dawn. It needs the better part of a day to drip, blacken, and break down into tender perfection. That’s why Thomas Boemer, chef at Revival and Corner Table, […]

Pages: 1 2 3

Minnesota Spoon: Smørrebrød with Erick Harcey of Upton 43

Things on toast have special place in my heart. I honestly can’t think of a better vehicle for getting food into my mouth than buttered, toasted bread. There are no rules and it fits into any meal of the day. Chef Erick Harcey of Upton 43 shares my enthusiasm, and he’s upping the ante with […]

The Minnesota Spoon: Marinated skirt steak fry bread sliders

I’ve always struggled with winters in Minnesota. But even though there are at least 100 reasons to hibernate and avoid human contact, I’ve found that becoming a hermit isn’t the best way to attack winter. One thing that’s always gotten me out of the house and limping back into society is cooking and hosting parties. […]

Pages: 1 2

Holiday Goose Recipe

Confit Goose Legs and Goose Breast Sous Vide with Goose Jus By Jon Wipfli, The Minnesota Spoon Goose might not be your go-to holiday bird, but this recipe will make you a believer. Don’t let fancy French words like confit and sous vide scare you off, these techniques are within your reach. If you can […]

The Minnesota Spoon: savory wild rice pancakes with anchovy butter

Photos by Matt Lien Minnesota has an obsession with wild rice. The grain is so emblematic of our state, it’s baffling how we became labeled as a group of grape-salad eaters. Apparently the importance of this abundant, local grain isn’t abundantly clear to the rest of the country. From being a staple of Native American […]

The Minnesota Spoon: Morel-Crusted Cod

Morel-crusted cod with morel, asparagus, and fava bean sauté Photos by Matt Lien There are few things more satisfying than foraging for food in the forest. Not only do you get to stomp around in the woods, but you get to find tiny treats growing within inches of your every step. There’s a plethora of food […]

Pages: 1 2

Going Whole Hog

Minnesota Spoon’s tip-to-tail guide to breaking down a pig Photos by Matt Lien If there are 1,000 ways to skin a cat, then there are approximately 1,001 ways to butcher a hog. That’s because each chef has his or her preferred method, myself included. Here, then, is my go-to guide for breaking down a pig. There are […]