Bite of the Week: Brisket Sandwich at Jellybean and Julia’s

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. Most good food is a craft, repeatable and reasonably straightforward and produced by an attentive crew following thoughtful procedures. And then there’s barbecue. Its “simplicity”—rub large piece of meat with spices, apply heat, and smoke—conceals its complexity. A … [ Read more]

Wild-Fired Kitchen

For Ryan Stechschulte and KZ ProVisioning, feeding the Minnesota Wild is a job and a passion Deep in the bowels of the Treasure Island Center in downtown St. Paul, chef Ryan Stechschulte stands over two enormous metal pots of gourmet goulash and talks about Minnesota Wild hockey. If the TRIA Rink practice lair is the Batcave, Stechschulte is … [ Read more]

Bite of the Week: Maverick’s Real Roast Beef Sandwich

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. Is it back? Or did it never really leave us? The Roast Beef Sandwich ($7) at Maverick’s in Roseville was the item that made the restaurant’s reputation over its nearly 20-year lifespan from 1999‒2018. And now that the … [ Read more]

Order Up! The latest restaurant openings, closings, and future openings

Updated January 17, 2019 Order Up! is the Growler’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to food@growlermag.com. All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot. THIS WEEK’S GIST: The biggest news this week comes … [ Read more]

‘All the Wild Hungers’ is a Deft Culinary Tour of Life, Death, and Lefse

Whatever else might divide us, we all have to eat. That’s the core of the newly released essay collection “All the Wild Hungers,” written by Karen Babine and published by Milkweed Editions. After her mother’s diagnosis with a cancerous tumor, Babine finds herself examining all aspects of her life: her upbringing in northern Minnesota, the … [ Read more]

The Fast and the Flavorful: 5 rapid, high-impact office lunch spots

Quick: It’s Wednesday, it’s noon, and your six-person team wants to bounce off campus and grab something inspiring for lunch. Where do you go? The challenge, of course, is a balancing act. You want food that’s fast enough to accommodate a 30-minute lunch “hour,” but you also want flavors that are big and bold. You … [ Read more]

Bite of the Week: Bacon-Wrapped Dates at Feller

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. Do appetizers get any more square than bacon-wrapped dates? These little Disco Era nuggets have been circulating for decades and they’ve earned a bad reputation along the way—too dry, too stringy, and too utterly played out. That they … [ Read more]

Order Up! The latest restaurant openings, closings, and future openings

Updated January 3, 2019 Order Up! is the Growler’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to food@growlermag.com. All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot. THIS WEEK’S GIST: A couple of jumbo-sized closings in Minneapolis … [ Read more]

Bite of the Week: The Sloppy Hot Paisano at The Little Oven

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. If you write about food for long enough, your eyes start to adjust and you can actually start seeing the scene clearly. What was once a small constellation of bright, newly formed, trendy restaurants fades to a more … [ Read more]

Review: Colita’s Many Charms Are Tough to Resist

Daniel Del Prado’s two restaurants may be sisters, but they aren’t identical twins. Martina has made a mark for itself in Linden Hills with its mirror-polished sheen of upscale glamor; Colita is newer and offers more funk. Colita is less “art reception” and more “party!”, a bit less seafood and considerably more masa, less polish … [ Read more]

Bite of the Week: Empanadas at Boludo

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. White subway tile on the wall; Latin pop blasting across the counter directly at the customers; cramped quarters; service that could be described as “relaxed.” All of Boludo’s atmospherics, plus an enticing bakery-like display of empanadas, suggest to … [ Read more]

For Minnesota’s Restaurant Scene, 2018 Was a Hell of a Year

The state of independent restaurants in Minnesota in 2018 is not merely strong; it’s exceptionally strong. A number of high-profile openings and announced expansions leave diners with a glittering galaxy of choices that will only continue to brighten as we move into 2019. First and foremost: Carefully curated mini-empires are expanding incrementally and wisely to … [ Read more]

Minnesota Restaurant Openings and Closing in 2018

The restaurant business is famously volatile, and 2018 in Minnesota was par for the course—dozens of high-profile spots opened or closed their doors in an environment rife with change. But the continued shift of entertainment dollars into dining is still paying dividends for the industry, and openings outnumbered closings as an already lively scene gathered … [ Read more]

Eating Insects in Minneapolis: Blue Delliquanti and Soleil Ho on their new graphic novel, “Meal”

Writer-cartoonist Blue Delliquanti and food writer Soleil Ho have keen ears for America’s conversation about food. Their recent graphic novel collaboration, “Meal,” speaks to issues that are blowing up the discourse: everything from the culinary power of insect protein to the struggle to define “authenticity” to the power imbalances inherent in the country’s foodways. And Ho’s appointment … [ Read more]

Bite of the Week: The Cubano at Guavas Cuban Cafe

Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler. The closure earlier this year of the restaurant Xavi was rightfully hailed as a sad event, but there’s a big silver lining to that particular cloud. The Xavi space at 56th and Chicago Avenue has become Guavas, a … [ Read more]