Kimchee and KFC: Young Joni’s Ann Kim and Adam Gorski on new American food traditions

So there’s Young, and there’s Joni. Two moms. One attentive and skillful Korean family cook: Young. One affectionate and bibulous North Dakota family host: Joni. Right? Okay, so there’s this restaurant: Young Joni. Coming soon. Northeast Minneapolis. Front dining room in the spirit of Young: Wood-fired ovens, open grill, shareable meals, generosity. Back bar in … [ Read more]

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Minnesota Spoon: Wine pairing with Jill Mott

Earlier that afternoon, just outside Jon Wipfli’s patio door, an entire boneless leg of lamb had twirled slowly on a string suspended above a hardwood fire for six hours or so, dripping occasional runnels of fat into the coals, and wrapping itself gradually in a cloak of char. Now, on the cutting board in front … [ Read more]

Minnesota Spoon: Tacos and timing with chef Jorge Guzman

At some point early on Sunday afternoon, I looked up from my work as enthusiastic-but-mostly-unskilled sous chef, and felt a pang of concern. This was not coming together. We were all over the map. Jon Wipfli, The Growler’s resident chef, was downstairs fussing with his new smoker on the sidewalk. Somebody was out on the … [ Read more]

Minnesota Spoon: Pork chops and plating with chef Paul Berglund

Chef Paul Berglund picks through the selection of knives available in Jon Wipfli’s kitchen, hefts a couple of them, and settles on his weapon of choice. Holding it in his left hand, he trues up the root ends of a row of scallions, rocks the knife up toward its tip, and with a single smooth … [ Read more]

Mike DeCamp’s Halibut with fava beans, mint, and speck recipe

Halibut with fava beans, mint, and speck (Serves 4) Ingredients 4 6-ounce pieces of halibut Enough extra virgin olive oil to cover the fish in a pot 2 cups shell pea sauce (recipe below) 2 cups vignole (recipe below) 4 slices speck ham, cut into strips ¼ cup thinly sliced mint ¼ cup butter Maldon sea … [ Read more]

Minnesota Spoon: Halibut with Mike DeCamp of Monello

The beard is magnificent. Untended and unfashionable. The anti-hipster beard. It streams down from his jaw in uneven rust-colored rivulets, and spreads high up his cheeks and toward his ears in a way that is tempting to compare to a blush, if we weren’t talking about maybe the least blushful person in this zip code. … [ Read more]