Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
One of the wonderful things about compiling a massive compendium of taquerias is that, time and time again, you keep encountering new twists on dishes you thought you understood. Take for example, the beef pastor taco of Las Tortillas, a pleasant but unassuming Mexican restaurant in Rosemount.
When you think of a taco al pastor, you tend to imagine pebbly, reddish, deeply marinated bits of pork carved off of a shawarma-like “trompo” rotating near an electric grill or open flame. Served on doubled-up corn tortillas and sprinkled with finely chopped raw onions and bits of cilantro, sometimes laced with little chunks of pineapple roasted alongside the meat, it’s one of the most habit-forming tacos in a vast repertoire of compelling options.
Try the beef pastor taco at Las Tortillas in Rosemount for an alternative view on the dish. The Las Tortillas version is much closer to a guajillo pepper-based stew, almost too soupy to be contained by the restaurant’s chewy, tasty, house-made flour tortilla. It’s a veritable boatload of moist, tender meat and shreds of pineapple that offers up a deep, lingering heat. Between the tenderness of the beef and the long, slow, mellow burn of the peppers, this is a fresh view on traditional tacos al pastor that deserves some serious consideration.
THE DISH: Beef Pastor Taco, $12 for two
THE PLACE: Las Tortillas, 15051 Crestone Ave., Rosemount
THE REASON: Real depth of spice and pleasantly lingering heat make this stew-like riff on tacos al pastor one to remember