Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
What makes a good order of biscuits and gravy? Travel to White Bear Lake and dine at the Cobblestone Cafe, and you’ll find one satisfying answer to that question. The Cobblestone Cafe is about as casual as it comes—cushy booths, no frills service, and a sprawling menu that turns on American comfort classics: a kaleidoscopic collection of French toast, pancakes, hash browns, eggs, and sausage combinations with a few more heavily produced numbers to catch the diner’s wandering eyes. These include Country Fried Steak, a Florentine Benedict, a Kielbasa Special and—anchoring the heart of the “Breakfast Specials” menu—Biscuits and Gravy ($8.50).
There are three main ways this dish tends to go wrong: it’s so salty that it burns your mouth. The gravy is stodgy and almost sets up into a brick in your stomach. And/or the proportions are wrong (biscuits drowned in a lake of gravy, massive bready biscuits that overwhelm the other elements, and so forth.) The Cobblestone Cafe avoids all of these pitfalls and offers a nicely seasoned, reasonably light gravy atop delightfully thin but chewy biscuits with little nuggets of sausage and tender, properly cooked scrambled eggs scrambled throughout, plus a mild breakfast link on the side. Making a perfect bite incorporating most or all of these elements is the rule, rather than the exception—it’s easy to put together a soothing flavor and texture balance every time you put your fork to the plate.
THE DISH: Biscuits and Gravy, $8.50
THE PLACE: Cobblestone Cafe, 4760 Washington Square, White Bear Lake
THE REASON: Cobblestone Cafe renders this breakfast standard with a surprisingly subtle touch