Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler and supported by our underwriter, Bite Squad.
Other than scrambled eggs, there may be no breakfast item more forgettable and less celebrated than plain old French toast. What is it, really? Bread soaked in eggs and milk (or half-and-half, or cream) and griddled until it’s ready to be doused with maple syrup. It’s a hot breakfast that any of us can rattle off without much effort. What this (entirely reasonable) view overlooks is that French toast can vary greatly in quality, from utterly mundane to surprisingly sublime.
The French toast at Highland Grill doesn’t necessarily look like much, just a few mottled brown ovals of uniform size and appearance. But it’s actually pretty remarkable stuff: custard-like and creamy in texture, and evenly infused with a delicate hit of cinnamon. It’s made with a subtlety and elegance that you rarely see in French toast—even the $13, fruit-stuffed, overproduced fancy versions that clutter up brunch menus from here to New York.
On a normal day, it’s a lovely thing to pick away at, and should you happen to roll through the doors of Highland Grill while hungry, you’ll find it downright inhalable.
The Dish:French Toast at Highland Grill, $10
The Place: Highland Grill in St. Paul
The Reason: It’s an example of elevating everyday food to a new level with the application of care and talent
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