Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
With a name like “iTorta,” you might expect a Mexican sandwich with Bluetooth connectivity, or at least some kind of basic, gluten-based cellular network connection. No such luck—iTaco’s namesake sandwich ($10) is decidedly low-tech, but it is, to its credit, practically bursting with a combination of pastor and asada-style meats, mozzarella cheese, lettuce, mayo, onions, tomatoes, pinto beans, pickled carrots and jalapenos, and hearty guacamole. While not so large that you can’t get your mouth around it, this is a sandwich that means business.
The extreme complexity of the sandwich’s contents results in a pleasant experience that varies from bite to bite. Some mouthfuls are avocado-driven, others meaty, most pleasantly tangy and rich thanks to the influence of cheese and mayonnaise, but none are unpleasant. A delicately crispy but sufficiently robust white bread roll is the perfect vehicle for this dish, and it neither overwhelms its contents nor falls apart in a soggy mess.
If you’re hungry, this is a sandwich that will sate your hunger with a vengeance. And if you’re not, it’s easily a light lunch for two.
THE DISH: iTorta, $10
THE PLACE: iTaco, 813 E 66th St., Richfield
THE REASON: A complex squadron of ingredients unite to provide one rich, delicious sandwich experience.