Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler and supported by our underwriter, Bite Squad.
Edwards Dessert Kitchen is so perfectly situated in its place (the North Loop) and time (2018) that it would be hard to design anything more nestled into its niche: It has an airy, sunny, succulent-bedecked interior, a host of thoughtful details (gold-toned silverware!), and bright, attractive display cases rammed to the gills with attractive pieces of patisserie ranging from chocolate-stuffed cookies to dressed and laden bon bons of real complexity.
It’s hard to settle on precisely what to order, but it seemed like the choice boiled down to chocolate or fruit, and we went with the latter.
The Mango Coconut Creme Pie Puff that we tried is at the nexus of everything Edwards is trying to accomplish. It’s showier than you can possibly imagine, including a gold leaf crown that sits perched atop a perfect cube of mango at the puff’s apex. And it’s indulgent—this is a full-sized Dessert Experience, enough to split between two people and priced accordingly ($10). The interior of this baseball-sized shell of pâte à choux is a sensuous mix of silken whipped cream and creamy blended mango, making for a fruit-dairy one-two punch ensconced in the chewy substance of the pastry that surrounds it. The coconut element was missing in action when we tried our puff, but even without it, the dish had a lot going for it in terms of both taste and texture.
The Dish: Mango Coconut Creme Pie Puff, $10
The Place: Edwards Dessert Kitchen in Minneapolis
The Reason: It shows off a perfect marriage of mango and creme united by well-executed pâte à choux.
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