Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
The Dough Room is one of those places that make you wonder what, exactly, is going on in the ritzy suburb of Wayzata. It’s a pasta-and-pizza place, but its appearance is almost entirely unlike your classic red sauce Italian-American joint. Instead, it embraces a sort of modernized Roaring ’20s feel, with deco fixtures polished to a golden luster. You wouldn’t be out of place dining here in a tuxedo, and if you’re bringing kids, dine early.
The Dough Room’s menu comes from the mind of chef Alex Dayton, who earned his stripes at local restaurants including the Kenwood, Butcher and the Boar, and Borough, plus a couple of world-acclaimed San Francisco eateries to boot. Stints at Red Wagon Pizza and Tenant (doing pasta) completed his training and set him up for The Dough Room’s focus on gorgeous fresh pasta and ambitious, boldly flavored pizzas including a highly successful twist on the all-time-great basil, tomatoes, and mozzarella margherita pizza.
A classic margherita is a triumph of minimalism, a stripped down, understated core of a pizza that’s made delicious by the quality of the ingredients and brief ferocity of the bake. The Dough Room version is a margherita with the volume turned up—bold, intense basil, incredibly punchy, bright, tomatoes, and a creamy burrata cheese that would taste oppressively rich were it not for the strength of the pizza’s other components. As is, the pizza really works: It’s rewardingly full flavored and all those bold toppings sit atop a crust that’s classic VPN-style, down to the slightly soggy middle and beautifully textured chewy ends.
The Dish: Margherita Pizza, $16
The Place: The Dough Room, 300 Superior Blvd., Wayzata
The Reason: It packs a surprising intensity and is a welcome guest on a cold winter night