Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
Going on its name alone, you’d never guess that Plymouth’s A & B Hamburgers was a Mexican American restaurant, but as soon as you’re through the door, you’re welcomed by a lo-fi photo menu adorned with fajita platters and a hand-written list of tacos (about 10 different varieties on the day we visited.) The restaurant is a side project of the adjoining Pineda Tacos, and burgers almost play second fiddle—you’ll find them hanging out in the lower right-hand side of the bill of fare.
Yet, they’re worth the hunt. We tried the flagship Mexican American Burger ($7.50 or $9.50 as part of a meal deal with fries and a soft drink), and were impressed with the depth of flavor packed by this massive platter of meat. The bun and burger patty itself are probably the least noteworthy parts of the burger—the former is soft and mostly stays out of the way without collapsing under its load, and the latter is flat, mildly flavored and utterly run-of-the-meal.
The secret to this burger is the toppings: a smear of fresh avocado brings richness, bacon brings chewy, salty deliciousness, pickled jalapeños and pickles bring briny acid and real heat, and onions and American cheese round out the full package. This is a dish with everything: heat, fattiness, acid, comforting carbohydrates, and a rich payload of umami flavor.
Our only caution is that the meal (with decent double-fried French fries on the side) is massive. Bring a lumberjack appetite and/or a hungry friend.
THE DISH: Mexican American Burger Meal (includes fries and soft drink), $9.50
THE PLACE: A & B Hamburgers, 60 Nathan Ln. N., Minneapolis
THE REASON: Real heat and the richness of avocado bring this burger to a good place