Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
There’s a lot to unpack with the new Potluck MN Food Hall at Rosedale Center. It has replaced the scuttled Revolution Hall, a food court that failed in part because of its reliance on gimmicky food and a single vendor populating its counters under various noms de cuisine. Potluck has gone out of its way to convey its local roots through the use of familiar shops and Minnesota personalities amidst its collection of seven shops.
Betty and Earl’s may be the jewel in this crown of local-facing fare, as the brainchild of TV personality Jason Matheson of Fox 9. He connects the biscuit shop’s mission to his grandfather’s prized recipe, which he’s been dialing in for years.
All this delightful backstory, of course, doesn’t mean a thing if the biscuits don’t back it up. And we’re no strangers to biscuits—we’ve been working for years to nail down a perfect buttermilk biscuit recipe.
As for the Betty and Earl’s version? It’s a lovely bruiser, a big, tender, buttery customer that stands up well to both sweet and savory applications, and makes a fine snack all by itself with a bit of butter or jam. While not as flakey as some of the homestyle biscuits we’ve enjoyed in the past, this isn’t a biscuit that lacks substance or charm. It’s also not overproduced or fussy—we’ve heard it (cheerfully) compared to an upscale spin on a KFC biscuit, if you’re looking for context. At about $4 ($5 with overly salty gravy, and at various prices with other sorts of sweet or savory toppings and fillings) it’s a strong value in terms of both style and substance.
THE DISH: Biscuit, $4.25
THE PLACE: Betty and Earl’s, Potluck MN Food Hall, Rosedale Center, 1595 MN-36, Roseville
THE REASON: It’s durable, it’s versatile, and it’s lovely enough to enjoy all by its lonesome.