Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
Eggs Benedict is one of those things in the culinary world that seems fairly self-explanatory but—in fact—contains a world of complexity. The basic elements are clear: English muffins, poached eggs, thin slices of ham or Canadian bacon (or a substitution of another protein), plus Hollandaise sauce. But you can overcook or (more rarely) undercook the eggs. The English muffins can be too thick and shoe-leather tough. The ham can be dried out or over-salted or missing in action or out of proportion to the rest of the dish. And the Hollandaise sauce… well, it’s a rare occasion to encounter a sauce with the richness and citrus zip of the real deal.
You would hope that a Wayzata-based restaurant literally named Benedict’s, with a massive Eggs Benedict section on its menu, would take this surprisingly tricky assignment seriously. Happily: it really does. We tried one of the restaurant’s fancier offerings, a Benedict featuring lump crab meat and asparagus in lieu of pork. As a food writer I try to avoid using superlatives like “fabulous,” but once in a while you need to conjure them from the arsenal—this dish was fabulous.
The crab meat was deeply and thoughtfully seasoned (along the lines of a classic Maryland crab cake), the English muffin had a nice chew but was of a modest size, and the eggs were perfectly poached. The dish was bespangled with bits of green onions and tiny little chopped pieces of delicately cooked asparagus, which added considerable visual and flavor appeal. And the Hollandaise? Light, tangy, rich, and delicate—just what you’d want from a place that hangs its hat on doing Benedicts well.
The Dish: Crab Oscar Benedict, $18
The Place: Benedict’s Morning Heroes, 845 Lake St. E., Wayzata
The Reason: It’s full-flavored but delicate, and a perfect good-mood day-starter