Bite of the Week is a weekly feature showcasing an exceptional meal or dish, curated by The Growler.
We are big believers in sandwiches—they’re affordable, portable, and when prepared correctly, capable of delivering all the thrills of an upscale entree with none of the pretense. So when we heard that Louie Lafleur (of Bittercube) and Jeff Watson (formerly executive chef at Martina) were starting a Japanese-inspired sandwich pop-up at Lawless Distilling called Sando, we had to go.
While inspired by Western ingredients and traditions, sando are retrofitted with Japanese techniques and tastes, which makes experiencing them in the heart of the American heartland a surreal (and pleasant!) experience. They tend to utilize shokupan (milk bread), which is sweet, tender, yielding white bread that is a perfect cradle for delicate or subtle ingredients.
Case in point: Sando’s Egg Sandwich ($10). The heart of this ravishingly tasty little beast is a black pepper and parmesan egg custard that is absurdly tender and rich. It’s backed up by American cheese, Kewpie mayo, and a substantial smokey piece of bacon that provides a meaty backstop to the sublime harmony of the eggs. The bread just barely holds the package together (watch out for filling sneaking out of the sides when you bite down), and it’s an ideal vehicle for the delicacy of the eggs.
Sando is supporting the Miracle at Lawless Holiday Cocktail Lounge program, so you can have a double dip of culture when you visit—place your food order, join the throng inside, start into your cocktail, and brace yourself for a transformative sandwich experience. And don’t be afraid to explore—the truck offers six sandwiches, including a Kit Kat- and pineapple amaro–based dessert option. (We also tried the PBJ & Pate, $10, an unctuous and luxurious triple-decker sandwich made with peanut butter, blueberry-bitters compote, and chicken liver pate.)
Until the end of the year, the Sando truck is open seven days a week at Lawless until 10pm (Sunday), 11pm (Monday, Tuesday), midnight (Wednesday, Thursday) or 1am (Friday, Saturday.)
THE DISH: Egg Sando, $10
THE REASON: It’s a whirlwind trip to Japan and back between two slices of bread.