In this Issue

The Growler Issue 45 cover art by Gordon Purcell

The Growler Issue 45 cover art by Gordon Purcell

Letter from the editor

Dear Readers,

One of the things I love most about my job is the interpretive nature of the content we share. Most of the things we cover—like food, beverages, and culture—are subjective experiences. We encourage our readers to engage in dialogues about how their own palates and personalities shape perceptions of taste and adventure.

I may love a dish at a restaurant that you just can’t stand. Our opinions may differ about the right style of beer to drink in the summertime. Perhaps we disagree about hip-hop’s place in modern music. The discussions about how these things make us feel are exactly why The Growler exists. But some things just aren’t up for debate.

Craft beer has a quality problem. Many new, inexperienced breweries are making a lot of bad beer. In the long run, that has the potential to hurt an industry we love. Our Science Issue discusses the importance of quality assurance in breweries big and small. Left to their own devices, sugar and yeast are capable of making alcohol and carbonation without human intervention, but science is what makes it palatable and repeatable.

As romantic as the process can seem, fermentation is not magic—it’s hard science. If the persons making your beer aren’t paying attention to its quality and consistency, then they’re doing a disservice to you and the beer community as a whole. I encourage you to continue to educate yourself about off flavors and brewing flaws. Ask your local brewery what they’re doing to control the quality of their beer batch-to-batch. Craft beer is still a relatively young industry, but that’s not an excuse for making shitty beer.

In an age where rhetoric and hyperbole are winning the day, let us remember that facts are still facts, my friends. And science still tells truths.

Joseph Alton


Fooling Father Time
“Rapid-Aging” and the Future of Craft Whiskey
By John Garland

I’m Never Drinking Again
The science behind hangovers
By Julie Kendrick

Culture of Excellence
For the betterment of beer, every brewery must invest in the science of quality assurance
By Cristeta Boarini

Bug Hunters
Bootleg Biology is collecting and cataloging the world’s wild yeast
By Louis Garcia

Brewer Profile
Caleb Levar of Fair State Brewing Cooperative and Oakhold Farmhouse Brewery
By Sarah Ratermann Beahan

Brewing a Better Industry
Rahr’s new tech center is putting beer ingredients to the test
By Chip Walton

Craft Cocktail
Campfire Rob Roy at Ngon Bistro
By John Garland

Spirits Close-Up
By John Garland

What We’re Drinking
July 2017
By Growler Staff


Minnesota Spoon
Travail cooks traditional with Bob Gerken, James Winberg, and Mike Brown
By Steve Hoffman

Minnesota Spoon Recipe
Roasted Duck with Duck Stock and Cracklins
By Travail’s Bob Gerken, James Winberg, and Mike Brown

Flavor Faves
The science behind our favorite food pairings
By Monique Kleinhuizen


Craft Culture: Skyline Neon
The Art of Fire, Glass, and Noble Gas
By Morgan Mercer

Artist Profile
Gordon Purcell
By Kate Murphy

Birds & the B-Sides
After 25 years of Music in the Zoo, Sue McLean’s legacy lives on
By Jackie Renzetti, 89.3 The Current


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