Order Up! Gavin Kaysen’s much-heralded Demi opens Friday night

Photo via Demi Website

Photo via Demi Website

Updated February 14, 2019

Order Up! is the Growler’s ongoing biweekly account of noteworthy Minnesota restaurant openings, closings, and future openings. Please send any tips to food@growlermag.com.

All dates are approximate based on best information available; opening dates, in particular, tend to shift around a lot.

THIS WEEK’S GIST: The much-heralded Demi, the third restaurant for chef-entrepreneur Gavin Kaysen’s Soigné Hospitality group, is open as of tomorrow night, Friday, February 15. “There’s no doubting Kaysen’s mastery of technique and finesse, both of which are on full display at Demi,” says Growler deputy editor John Garland, who attended a preview dinner for the North Loop-based restaurant last weekend. “The dishes at the preview were dripping with Midwestern modesty—neither promising too much, nor delivering too little. A perfectly grilled Wagyu. A sublime sabayon draped over delicate cod. The experience is rooted in tradition and hospitality, not flashy cheffing. Demi is confident in its presentation and about as genial and accessible as a 20-seat restaurant can be.” Speaking of accessibility: Reservations are difficult to obtain for months to come, so if you’re looking forward to sampling the food, book early and be flexible.

The once-forgettable Minnesota barbecue scene has started to heat up in recent years, and the boom keeps rolling along: Beast BBQ and the relocated Market BBQ are now open in Northeast Minneapolis, and the well-regarded BBQ stand Bark and the Bite will be opening a brick-and-mortar spot in the former Heirloom space in St. Paul. Many of the new-school barbecue spots are serving fresher product (which makes for a more pleasant texture experience, in particular) and taking care to smoke in such a way as to present beautiful smoke rings and well-developed bark. We recently got out to the newish spot Jellybean and Julia’s in Anoka, and had one of the best brisket sandwiches of our lives. And the upcoming Minnesota BBQ Co. (founded by some of the team behind Travail) will add more fuel to the flame. For serious Q fans, things are looking up!

We bid farewell this week to Lucky Oven, an Armatage-based bakery that, at its peak, was producing lovely scratch-made buns and pastries plus elegant breakfasts as good as any in town.

RECENTLY OPENED (Up to 2 Months)

Three Meat Barbecue Platter from Beast BBQ // Photo via Beast BBQ Website

Three Meat Barbecue Platter from Beast BBQ // Photo via Beast BBQ Website

Demi, 212 N. 2nd St., Suite 100, Minneapolis ■ The latest from Gavin Kaysen’s restaurant group, which includes Spoon and Stable and Bellecour. Demi is small (20 seats) and focused on locally derived tasting menus. Opens tomorrow. Read our story “Gavin Kaysen will get local with a new restaurant, Demi.”

Beast BBQ, 825 E. Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis ■ Another new barbecue spot, owned by the Eli’s crew and located in the former Legends. Formerly announced as Lipstick Pig BBQ. Opened January 31, 2019.

The Copper Cow, 5445 Eden Prairie Rd., Minnetonka ■ A new eatery from the Copper Hen team. Opened January 29, 2019.

Market BBQ (moving from current location), 220 Lowry Ave. NE, Minneapolis ■ The venerable Eat Street BBQ joint has picked up stakes and moved into a fresh new location in trendy Northeast. Opened January 9, 2019.

P.S. Steak, 510 Groveland Ave., Minneapolis ■ The former La Belle Vie space will see an injection of culinary ambition with this new, steak-focused concept featuring high-flying talent including Mike DeCamp of Jester Concepts (who spent a decade in La Belle Vie’s kitchen) and Wyatt Evans (formerly of Heirloom). Opened January 7, 2019. Read our “Bite of the Week: Baked Alaska at P.S. Steak.”

Ziadi’s Mediterranean Cuisine at Midtown Global Market, 920 E. Lake St., Minneapolis ■ A major expansion of the popular Moroccan Flavors stand into the former Rabbit Hole location in Midtown Global Market, Ziadi’s features lunch and dinner service. Opened January 2, 2019.

Union Kitchen at Sociable Cider Werks, 1500 Fillmore St. NE, Minneapolis ■ Yia Vang’s Hmong-cooking-meets-Minnesota-fare concept moves from pop-up to medium-term residency, kicking off the Sociable Cider Werks on-site food truck program. Opened December 31, 2018. Read our profile of Yia Vang and our coverage of the Sociable residency program: “The Very Visible Yia Vang” and “‘Chef Incubator’ food trailer coming to Sociable Cider Werks

Bus Stop Burgers and Brewhouse, 620 S. 4th St., Suite 130, Minneapolis ■ Blended burgers and craft beer from the team behind Target Center’s Cargo Food Authority. Opened December 30, 2018. Read our article on the brewpub.

Pizza Karma, 8451 Joiner Way, Eden Prairie ■ Naan-based pizza created by James Beard winner and chef Raghavan Iyer. Opened December 17, 2018. Read our upcoming review in the March Economics edition of The Growler magazine.

Piggy Bank, 2841 Hennepin Ave., Minneapolis ■ The latest in a long, fast-moving string of restaurants to try their hand at the Old Chicago location on Hennepin Avenue. Menu is a mix of burgers, flatbreads, vegan fare, and wings. Opened December 14, 2018.

RECENTLY CLOSED (Up to 2 Months)

Pastries from Lucky Oven Bakery // Photo via Lucky Oven Bakery Website

Pastries from Lucky Oven Bakery // Photo via Lucky Oven Bakery Website

Lucky Oven ■ The neighborhood scratch bakery and breakfast shop had a brief but tasty run in the Armatage neighborhood. Closed February 9, 2019.

Mi Casa Su Casa ■ The metro’s only Mexican-Pinoy spot called it quits after a short run on University Avenue in St. Paul. Closed February 9, 2019. Read our “Bite of the Week: Chicken Adobo at Mi Casa Su Casa.”

Chef Shack (trucks and restaurant) ■ Street food pioneers Lisa Carlson and Carrie Summer closed their Seward restaurant late last year, but only recently did they announce that they’ll also be selling their locally famous food trucks. Closed January 24, 2019.

Hasty Tasty ■ Well-received smoked meats and craft cocktails weren’t able to keep the lights for this Lyn-Lake resident. Closed January 10, 2019. Read our “Craft Cocktail: Of the Northern Fashioned at The Hasty Tasty.”

Pearl & the Thief ■ This popular Southern-themed spot in Stillwater has closed to relocate to downtown Minneapolis. Closed December 31, 2018. Read our “First Look: Pearl and the Thief brings Southern comfort to Stillwater.”

Blue Moon Coffee Cafe ■ A 24-year-old stalwart of East Lake Street wraps up its long run. Closed December 31, 2018.

Dalton and Wade ■ A lovingly curated whiskey menu couldn’t keep the doors open for this North Loop-located, Southern-focused Minneapolis spot. Closed December 31, 2018.

Draft Horse ■ The Food Building’s resident tavern-style local fare-fueled eatery has called it quits. Closed December 30, 2018. Read: “Embracing Limitation at the Draft Horse.”

Prime 6 ■ This sprawling behemoth of a concept, opened in Minneapolis’ City Center in February 2018, never fully clicked with diners. Closed December 18, 2018.

UPCOMING (Most Imminent to Furthest Out)

The Bark and The Bite food truck // Photo via Bark and The Bite Facebook

The Bark and the Bite food truck // Photo via Bark and the Bite Facebook

Hamburguesas El Gordo (reopening), 1731 S. Robert St., West St. Paul ■ The St. Paul location of the popular Mexican hamburger restaurant shut down after losing its lease; it will reopen in a larger location early this year. Opens February 2019.

Bark and the Bite, 2186 Marshall Ave., St. Paul ■ The popular BBQ food stand (based in Sunny’s Market in Northeast) is moving to a bricks-and-mortar space in St. Paul in the former Heirloom location. Opens April 2019.

Taco Arcada, 1910 W. Superior St., Duluth ■ The latest new concept from the Duluth Grill / OMC Smokehouse / Corktown Deli team, combining a bar, arcade, and “fresh-Mex” food. Opens Spring 2019.

J.D. Fratzke Supper Club at Artisan Plaza [Name TBD], 1223 4th St. S., Cannon Falls ■ The next step for St. Paul mainstay J.D. Fratzke (Bar Brigade, Strip Club Meat and Fish) is a supper club–style restaurant at the already open Artisan Plaza in Cannon Falls. Opens Spring 2019.

Graze Provisions and Libations, 525 3rd St. N., Minneapolis ■ A new North Loop food hall with an exclusive emphasis on chef-driven dining. Opens Summer 2019.

Minnesota BBQ Co., 816 Lowry Ave. NE, Minneapolis ■ A mostly catering- and takeout-focused BBQ spot by the team behind Travail. 2019.

New Vestalia Hospitality Concept [Name TBD], 1432 W. 31st St., Minneapolis ■ A new spot from Ann Kim’s restaurant group focused on tacos wrapped in handmade, traditional tortillas. 2019.

Dayton’s Food Hall & Market, 700 Nicollet Mall, Minneapolis ■ Major new 40,000-square-foot food hall curated by Andrew Zimmern. 2019.

The Sioux Chef Restaurant at Water Works, on the Mississippi River, behind the Mill City Museum ■ A restaurant focused on American Indian cuisine as imagined by Sean Sherman, The Sioux Chef. 2019.

Malcolm Yards Market, 501 30th Ave. SE, Minneapolis ■  A food hall that will capitalize on its proximity to Surly’s massive brewery/restaurant complex. 2019.

[Editor’s Note, February 15: The headline has been updated to reflect the correct opening date of Demi.]

A BLIND TASTING BEER FESTIVAL

Taste & Rate
48 Hazy IPAs

July 18, 2019 | 5:30–9:00pm
Upper Landing Park, St. Paul