Bite of the Week: The Pho and Ramen Bar at Kowalski’s on Hennepin

If you’re not innovating, you’re dying. God bless all the grocery stores that keep trying to push those margins a little bit by expanding into new products, services, and hot food offerings—it’s that kind of thinking that brought us the surprisingly good sushi at Hy-Vee, among other things. (It’s also brought us surprisingly bad sushi … [ Read more]

Cold Waves, Hot Ramen: Wherein the Boundary Waters sets its hook in the soul of a Minnesota chef

This is the debut of Off the Map, a column by chef J.D. Fratzke. It appears monthly at and occasionally in print. Wells was stripped to his skivvies and running in place, every inch of his skin the color of raspberry bubble gum. Though it couldn’t have been more than a 30-yard swim to … [ Read more]

Review: Care and precision mark the food of Tori 44

Minnesota isn’t widely known as a home of great Japanese noodle dishes, but in recent years some talented locals have been chipping away at the multifaceted problem. You’ve got to have great broth, of course, and that can take months of cooking (and years of learning). You’ve got to source your vegetables carefully and make … [ Read more]