Review: Delicious and divisive, Demi isn’t for everyone

It’s not difficult to understand why reservations for Demi are nearly impossible to come by—it’s a very small place that makes a very big promise. Dine at Demi and you get a concentrated, multi-course blast of the same intensely cosmopolitan hospitality that distinguishes its sister restaurants of Spoon and Stable and Bellecour. If you choose … [ Read more]

Whirlwind Tour: Rediscovering Stillwater in a 10-stop dining adventure

This is a part of our Whirlwind Tour food series, in which we taste through a town’s culinary scene.   Stillwater has a reputation for its sense of history (founded 165 years ago, it’s among the state’s oldest towns) and its downtown embraces the past with everything from its motto (“The Birthplace of Minnesota”) to historic … [ Read more]

Review: Garage Bar and Bowl is an oasis of plainspoken culinary magic

What’s in a chicken wing? Along with burgers and pizza, wings are one of America’s quintessential bar foods, simple to do tolerably well, but surprisingly difficult to get exactly right. The question is: Why shoot for excellence when “tolerable” is good enough? That’s what drew us out to Waconia (twice) to visit the six-month-old Garage … [ Read more]

Ziadi’s Mediterranean Cuisine Proves that the Devil is in the Details

There is a deep but hard-to-see gulf between scratch-made counter spots and fine-dining restaurants. Two specific examples: World Street Kitchen and Meritage. Both serve delicious food that’s made with care, but a world of slight and sometimes intangible differences sets them apart from each other. It’s into this chasm that the new Midtown Global Market … [ Read more]

Review: Naan pizza and a novel recipe for success at Pizza Karma

Even the best restaurant is only as good as its bottom line. The freshest ingredients, the warmest hospitality, and the tastiest food can’t sustain a place that’s burdened by a budget that’s underwater. (For example, the closure three years ago of the stunningly ambitious Brasserie Zentral in Minneapolis, one of the best restaurants you probably … [ Read more]

Review: Colita’s Many Charms Are Tough to Resist

Daniel Del Prado’s two restaurants may be sisters, but they aren’t identical twins. Martina has made a mark for itself in Linden Hills with its mirror-polished sheen of upscale glamor; Colita is newer and offers more funk. Colita is less “art reception” and more “party!”, a bit less seafood and considerably more masa, less polish … [ Read more]

Review: (Un)Lucky Cricket

Lucky Cricket is a cautionary tale for building a restaurant on a foundation of contradictions There may be no less lucky way to launch a major new Midwestern Chinese restaurant than categorically describing your mom-and-pop competition as “horseshit.” But that’s the tack world traveler and TV personality Andrew Zimmern took while launching his St. Louis … [ Read more]

Review: Lat14 Asian Eatery tells a personal story with boldness and style

Trends come and go, and while some are maddening ($4 donuts) and some perplexing (ubiquitous poke bowls in a state over a thousand miles from the closest ocean), some are welcome and improve the dining scene. Case in point: restaurants tied to a distinct sense of place. More and more new eateries have menus that … [ Read more]

Whirlwind Tour of Five Independent Eateries in Woodbury

When you enter the suburb of Woodbury from I-94, one of the first things that strikes your eye is the city’s profusion of chain restaurants: Five Guys, Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Perkins, Little Caesar’s, and so on, from strip mall to shopping center to apartment complex. But like most metro suburbs, once you drag a … [ Read more]

Review: 3rd Street Tavern in St. Peter is helping to relight the torch of real barbecue

Step by painful step, Americans are reclaiming the proud culinary heritage of barbecue. Barbecue’s roots are deep, intertwining the foodways of the Caribbean’s indigenous people, traditions arising from the institution of Southern slavery, and regional variants that have become synonymous with hospitality in places as far flung as the Carolinas, Alabama, Texas, and Missouri. To … [ Read more]

Review: Holman’s Table

There’s a lot to be said for liminal spaces. When you’re transitioning from one place to another, you’re in both spots at once—and you’re nowhere, too. In that regard, Holman’s Table—the restaurant housed within the St. Paul Downtown Airport’s adorable moderne-style administration building—is a real doozy. You’re at an airport, yes—halfway between Minnesota and nearly … [ Read more]

Review: Sushi Train’s gimmick delivers real flavor

Have no doubt: The sushi-laden conveyor belt at the heart of Sushi Train is a gimmick. It’s a prop that sets the newly opened downtown Minneapolis restaurant apart from the dozens of other places slinging sushi in the Metro area and beyond—a visual symbol of excess, an eye-catching curio that makes you go, “What? Is … [ Read more]

Goat Cheese Fritters and Lagunitas Pils at Pat’s Tap

Food Meets Beer Hits Pat’s Tap on Eat Street By Jon Garland, The Heavy Table Photos by Aaron Davidson Kim Bartmann’s Eat Street hipster hangout has matured nicely since opening. A spate of tasty bar snacks and an impressive canned beer list is helping it become the comfortable neighborhood spot it was always meant to … [ Read more]

Braised Beef Carbonnade with Tilburg’s Dutch Brown Ale at Pig & Fiddle

Food Meets Beer Goes Whole Hog at Pig & Fiddle By Jason Walker, The Heavy Table Photos by Jamie Schumacher Known as one of the pioneering craft beer bars in the Twin Cities, Saint Paul’s Muddy Pig has devoted fans from all over the metro who keep coming back for its array of tap beers, Belgian … [ Read more]