Review: (Un)Lucky Cricket

Lucky Cricket is a cautionary tale for building a restaurant on a foundation of contradictions There may be no less lucky way to launch a major new Midwestern Chinese restaurant than categorically describing your mom-and-pop competition as “horseshit.” But that’s the tack world traveler and TV personality Andrew Zimmern took while launching his St. Louis … [ Read more]

Review: Hyacinth’s Debut is Crisp, Collected, and Charming

Hyacinth has got the glow. It’s one of those restaurant things that just happens once in a while: think of Martina, or Hai Hai, or Saint Dinette. The vibes are good, the rumors are all cheerful, and once the doors are open, all the buzz is positive. And then you go, and: yep, the hype … [ Read more]

Review: Meyvn brings an expert’s precision to bagels (and deli food)

Deli food looks remarkably easy to pull off. In theory: You make (or buy) some cured meats, you put ’em on bread with some cheeses and dressings and pickles, and presto! You’re charging $12‒15 for a sandwich. In reality, without a seriously dedicated in-house program for meat and someone with taste patrolling the food, things … [ Read more]

Review: Care and precision mark the food of Tori 44

Minnesota isn’t widely known as a home of great Japanese noodle dishes, but in recent years some talented locals have been chipping away at the multifaceted problem. You’ve got to have great broth, of course, and that can take months of cooking (and years of learning). You’ve got to source your vegetables carefully and make … [ Read more]

Review: Grand Catch is a Mixed Bag

There’s no law against plucking a food from its roots and serving it to people who didn’t grow up eating it. Yes, that’s how you get gas station sushi, but it’s also how you get taco trucks, and if you deny the worth of those, you don’t have any business pretending to enjoy food. And … [ Read more]