If you watch Tim Niver casually assemble an order of bucatini all’amatriciana, you might easily mistake him for a chef. “I love that browning effect on the garlic,” he says, the smell of pancetta filling the kitchen at Mucci’s Italian. “You get that slight tinge of bitterness and you can even find some of those … [ Read more]
Dollars to Dumplings: Tim Niver’s relentless hustle keeps his culinary mini-empire current and profitable
February 25, 2019 by
Review: Meyvn brings an expert’s precision to bagels (and deli food)
July 11, 2018 by
Deli food looks remarkably easy to pull off. In theory: You make (or buy) some cured meats, you put ’em on bread with some cheeses and dressings and pickles, and presto! You’re charging $12‒15 for a sandwich. In reality, without a seriously dedicated in-house program for meat and someone with taste patrolling the food, things … [ Read more]
Saint Dinette’s quail is St. Paul’s underrated fried bird
July 17, 2017 by
Welcome to Plate Of The Week, a journal about memorable dining experiences in the Twin Cities. Which plate can’t you stop thinking about? Let us know @growlermag. You’ve no doubt already gorged on a certain fried bird up on Cathedral Hill, and as well you should have. But next time the urge strikes you, there’s one … [ Read more]
Get the tasting menu and listen to the whole song
May 8, 2017 by
When someone asks me about the point of a chef’s tasting menu, and why it’s worth ordering, it takes me a while to get beyond “don’t you want to see what they can do when they’re turned loose?” I realize not everyone thinks that way, or that they might blink at a three-hour dinner. So … [ Read more]
Craft Cocktail: Negroni Puebla at Saint Dinette
July 31, 2015 by Leave a Comment
Photos by Aaron Davidson “It’s all about drinking what tastes good,” Laurel Elm smiles from behind the bar of Saint Dinette. “But for me, it’s more about the relationship and less about what I’m pouring in your glass.” Elm has been a driving force behind the much-anticipated Lowertown eatery that opened in late June. Early … [ Read more]
Lowertown Low Down: Saint Dinette and More
December 1, 2014 by Leave a Comment
The Strip Club Meat & Fish Photos by Daniel Murphy Lowertown Photos by Brian Kaufenberg Everything about the space at 261 East Fifth Street in Lowertown St. Paul feels optimistic. The white walls ascend to high ceilings supported by three palatial columns—stoic symbols looking disused, aching for new life. Tall windows look across Wall Street … [ Read more]
